🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.